HANOVER , near Lebanon and just across from Vermont, is home to the venerable and elegant Dartmouth College , founded in this remote spot in the eighteenth century "for the instruction of the Youth of Indian tribes ? and others." The main attraction here is the small Hood Museum of Art on the college green (Tues & Thurs-Sat 10am-5pm, Wed 10am-9pm, Sun noon-5pm; free), which has works by Picasso and Monet alongside Assyrian bas-reliefs. In the adjacent cultural complex, the Dartmouth Film Society screens international art and classic movies year-round ($5).

Hanover itself is enjoyable to wander around, with lively places to eat and drink such as Molly's Restaurant & Bar , 43 S Main St (tel 603/643-2570), and the always busy Lou's Restaurant & Bakery , 30 S Main St (tel 603/643-3321). Its best accommodation is in the Hanover Inn (tel 603/643-4300 or 1-800/443-7024, ; $250+), overlooking Dartmouth Green from the corner of Main and Wheelock streets; the Chieftain Motor Inn , 84 Lyme Rd (Rte-10 N) (tel 603/643-2550, ; $75-100/$100-130), represents the best budget option.

One secluded and memorable place to stay nearby is Moose Mountain Lodge (mid-June to mid-Oct and Dec 26 to early March; tel 603/643-3529, ; $160-200, two-night stay required), a steep climb up in the hills above Etna , overlooking Vermont. All year it feels blissfully remote from the world below, but it really comes into its own for cross-country skiing in winter. The friendly owners, who love the country life, charge $100 per day per person, which includes a hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner.